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The lovely thing about Planet Vogues is that we’ve coupled these amazing extensions with our hero product, Lastik. What does this mean for you? It means you already have everything you need to add another service to your menu! đź’…
Now, what we call this service can be a bit confusing, as the industry has lots of different names for it. If you’re talking to an old-school tech like me, I’d call this a gel overlay. As you might remember from your manual, an overlay is when a nail enhancement system is applied over natural nails without adding any length. So a gel overlay is simply using gel over the natural nails to strengthen them.
Clever marketing has given this service a whole bunch of different names—builder manis, structured manis, builder in a bottle (BIAB) nails—but they all boil down to the same thing: using gel to add strength and durability to natural nails.
When we covered infills, we basically taught you how to do a gel infill over your Vogue extensions. And when we covered the float coat, we showed you how to apply a builder layer over nails and extensions. Both of these techniques can be used without extensions—directly over natural nails.
In the video below, I’ll demonstrate a whole range of scenarios around gel overlays and show you exactly how to perform them.

Below is a demonstration of how to do a BIAB overlay when one of your clients come in with product (be it from another salon or with lets say with a vogue extension or previously infilled vogue extension) on their nails already. You shorten the nail and (as demonstrated in the removal lesson) take the product down to a 5-10% thickness before doing a gel overlay or BIAB application.

If you need a refresher on how to de-bulk down to a thin layer please refer back to the Removal Lesson.

Click on the highlighted text below to download step by step BIAB instructions.

Planet Nails BIAB Application Instructions

So above, we’re talking about applying gel over natural nails—but did you know we can use the same gel for a tip overlay?
With Vogues, I taught you how to apply full-cover tips, but BIAB or gel overlays can also be performed over half tips. You’d use this technique in a couple of scenarios:
  • If a client has broken just one or two nails and wants a BIAB overlay, you can apply a tip to those nails while doing the overlay on the rest.
  • If a client wants to extend all of their nails, you can apply half tips to all ten fingers and perform a BIAB/gel tip overlay.
So let’s look at performing this service on bare nails. The video below was filmed during a one-on-one in-person session, so you may hear my model asking questions too.

Now that we’ve had a refresher on nail prep, let’s cover a little theory about half tips. Please watch the video below for more info—remember to hit pause at intervals to absorb all the details.

Now lets look at Tip Application using our Short Pre-Shaped Half Tips:

Here is a link to the tips used in these videos: https://www.planetnails.com.au/?rf=kw&kw=600+short+half

Below is a quick video demonstrating how to adhere Half tips using Gel

 

Now lets move onto how to apply your Gel over the Half Tips:

Please refer back to the Float Coat lesson for a refresher on how to perform a building layer (wetting layer, how to move the product and where we need the structure to sit)

 

As mentioned a gel overlay can be performed using Lastik, Lastik PLUS or PUG. These gels are applied in the same way, you would just choose which one is appropriate for your clients needs:

  1. Lastik – for short nails and clients who need flexibility (Lastik soaks off using acetone)
  2. Lastik PLUS – for short to medium nails, recommended over tips (short to medium) and clients needing a harder curing gel = better durability (PLUS soaks off using acetone)
  3. PUG – short to long nails but for longer natural nails PUG will be your most durable option, long tip extensions, clients exposed to water and chemicals (swimming instructors, nurses, hair dressers etc.), clients needing shape correction (pinching) and clients needing the most durability (PUG is a file off permanent gel – you are able to use a soakable base coat underneath)

With all options above you are able to apply either Clear Lastik or Stick ‘n Float as a base under your building layers. These are applied as a ‘rubber base’ in the following scenarios:

  1. for clients prone to lifting,
  2. clients with nail irregularities,
  3. if tips are used,
  4. if you would like to be able to file back down to a thin clear base or
  5. if the building product cures harder and the natural nails are flexible to prevent the product from pulling away from the natural nails.

Choose Lastik for everyone as a base and SWITCH to Stick ‘n Float in the following scenarios:

  1. if the client has a HEMA sensitivity
  2. if you’ve experienced lifting with Lastik
  3. if the client suffers from oily skin/nails or sweaty hands

 

Below are a few Quick or BIAB Quick Tip related Videos:

Lastik HF BIAB step by step

Lastik HF BIAB TIP OVERLAY step by step

Lastik PLUS BIAB step by step

PUG Overlay step by step:

PUG Tip Overlay step by step:

You will note that when the nails are shorter I perform my building layer in one coat and when the nails are longer I perform my building coat in two layer (sometimes more than two = extreme lengths) this is because none of our builder gel products are designed to be applied in thicker than 1.5-2mm thickness at a time (this is to ensure a proper cure) and to ensure proper structure for longer nails it is impossible to build the correct structural thickness required in one coat. It is also irresponsible to attempt to build in thick layers for a few reasons:

  1. ensuring proper cure is achieved (under curing leads to overexposure = allergic reactions)
  2. preventing excessive heat during curing (too thick a layer can cause enough heat during curing to ‘burn’ the nail bed leading to onycholysis)
  3. preventing excessive pressure during wear – too thick a layer can alter the natural curve of the nail leading to a consistent excessive pressure during wear which can lead to onycholysis
  4. ALSO using the wrong product applied in a building manner can cause chemical burns to the nail bed which can lead to onycholysis – Stick ‘n Float is a RUBBER BASE and not designed to be used as a builder, if this product is applied in a building manner (too thick) it will cause onycholysis due to its high acid content.

Below is a video demonstrating apex placement and thickness. This enhancement was achieved using Lastik HF PLUS and done in 3 building layers specifically because achieving the right structural thickness for the length of natural nails would have been impossible in just 2 coats.

Apex Thickness and placement visuals:

 

Quick tips for clients struggling with lifting at the free edge:

 

Please feel free to reach out if you had any questions by sending us an email to edu@planetnails.com.au